THE STRAITS TIMESCINDERELLA STORY Colombia’s crime and drug past is no more. Its citizens are all too keen to show off its magnificent coffee farms and cultural destinations. MERLENE MICHAEL reports from the Latin American country. Latin American nation shows off its beauty and culture as it leaves its violent past behind: by Merlene Michel Lush rainforests, architectural wonders and pristine beaches and plantations. It was not what I was expecting. The picture of Colombia in my head had been set by what I had read in most accounts and seen in movies such as Mr & Mrs Smith (2005) and Romancing The Stone (1984) – a rural country where thugs and lawlessness ruled. There was no hint of a land of astonishing natural beauty and diversity. For much of the 20th century, Colombia’s beauty has been overshadowed by its ugly side. Although Pablo Escobar’s reign as head of the Medellin drug cartel ended in 1993 when he was gunned down by police, the Latin American nation has had a hard time shaking off its image as one of the most dangerous countries in the world. With a dramatic improvement in security in recent years, however, it is enjoying a new confidence. The economy is thriving, unemployment is down, murder and kidnapping rates have plunged, and the only boom talked about is in property prices as hotels and homes sprout all over the country. The people are determined to change their country’s reputation and show off the new Colombia to the rest of the world. You could say Colombia is the Cinderella story in Latin America right now. The crime and drug trade has by no means disappeared, but most Colombians will tell you their country feels safer and that it is not just for the brave anymore.Bogota: Culture in the capital The transformation of Colombia is evident in its capital, Bogota. Nestled high in the Andes at 2,620m above sea level, it has changed in recent years into a cosmopolitan city full of museums and restaurants. It does not sweep you off your feet at first glance. You need to take time to wander in the streets for its charms to strike you. A good place to start is the old historic centre known as La Candelaria. It houses several universities, libraries, museums, cafes and theatres, lending the area a bohemian feel. We were told that a visit to the Museo Botero (Botero Museum) was the thing to do in Bogota and it did not disappoint. The magnificent 208-piece collection was donated by the country’s greatest living artist Fernando Botero, famous for his “fat people” paintings and sculptures. The museum (admission is free) contains 123 of his own works along with 85 pieces by an impressive range of European masters such as Picasso, Dali and Matisse. The Botero collection, catalogued as the most important art exhibition in the country, is housed in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Take time to walk through the courtyards to appreciate the architecture. Another must-see is the Museo del Oro or Gold Museum (admission: $2). The dazzling display of gold collection in the form of ornaments, coins and artefacts is the biggest in the world and offers a journey through the country’s pre-Hispanic cultures and their religionsand myths. As in many Latin American towns, the central square serves as the social centre of the city. And the nearby Plaza De Bolivar (Simon Bolivar Square) is a great place to people-watch and observe how Bogotanos spend time with their families. The square is surrounded by several government buildings and the presidential palace (Casa de Narino). Open to the public upon application one week in advance, the beautiful, heavily guarded fortress is not only the residence of the president, but it also houses works of art from different years. To get a view of Bogota from dizzying heights, we took a funicular and zipped up to Monserrate. Right next to the La Candelaria district, it is a gorgeous hill that has become the city’s symbol. From various vantage points, you can look over downtown Bogota and the historic old town as well as over most of the rest of the city. This peak of 3,160m is also a famous religious site. On top of the mountain is a church with a statue of the Fallen Christ visited by hundreds of pilgrims every day. Just behind the church are rows of stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs. Whatcaught our attention was the coca tea that came from the coca plant, from which the drug cocaine is also derived. It is completely legal and does not have a narcotic effect. But we were told it does help to relieve altitude sickness. Cartagena: Caribean vibe Hot, sultry, colourful and filled with tradition and music, Cartagena is my favourite stop in Colombia. Perched on the northern coast and facing the Caribbean Sea, it enjoys year-round tropical weather and warm seas. You can laze by the beachfront, but the attractions are really in the old city, surrounded by an impressive wall built to thwart pirate attacks. With its narrow cobbled streets, pastel plazas and balconies creaking under the weight of bougainvillea, Cartagena looks and feels like you have stepped back into its colonial past. Little wonder that the seaport is a Unesco World Heritage site. Did you know Cartagena was the place that fuelled the fiction of Colombian novelist Gabriel Garcia Marquez? Although he spends most of his time in Mexico City, the 83- year-old has a home in Cartagena. You cannot miss the ochre-coloured house at the corner of Calle Zerrezuela and Calle del Curato in the San Diego district. We were privileged to meet his brother, Jaime, who took this group of Asian journalists on a walking tour that his brother had in mind when writing Love In The Time Of Cholera. Another way to see the old town is to rent a horse and carriage (about $20). If you need a refreshing break from the heat, stop one of the palenqueras. Dressed in colourful dresses, these women elegantly sway their hips while balancing bowls of fresh fruit and juices on their heads. Just remember, time slows down a little here: Hotel staff are in no hurry to check you in and your lunch arrives at least half an hour after you have placed your order. We were taken to Convento de la Popa, a hilltop convent at the city’s highest point which of